Jewelry Business Guru by Cindy Edelstein

Tungsten Wedding Rings: Jewelry Designer Scott Kay Denounces Misleading Advertising Methods & Introduces bioBlu27 alloy

Scott Kay introduced his new SK Cobalt line to the trade press yesterday by way of educating folks on how it came to be. He helped develop a new metal alloy that answers a need in the marketplace for affordable wedding rings that is superior to tungsten carbide --the cost effective darling of the bridal business for the past few years that is promoted as lasting, strong and durable yet shatters easily. See photo below of a wedding ring dropped on a marble tile.

He is very passionate for our industry and full disclosure and not misleading the public --  these videos show his heartstrong debate of the use and promotion of tungsten. He's not against the material only it's use as wedding rings ("sacred" rings that are promoted as durable and lifetime guaranteed even though that means replaced not unbreakable).

Scott heard from many of his retailers about their disappointment in replacing so many tungsten carbide wedding rings. “When I go on the internet and read that tungsten rings are indestructible, unbreakable, durable, and strong, I have a real problem with that,” Kay says. “I have a problem with tungsten carbide for a wedding ring without 100% disclosure that it breaks when it falls on the floor.”

The new cobalt alloy called bioblu27 will be available at a later date to all via manufacturer Spectore Corporation which developed the alloy with Kay (who holds the exclusive to the patent for now) and metal supplier Carpenter Technologies. SK Cobalt is the brand name for Kay's bioblu27 creations. 

You can see the bulk of the press conference in these videos (also on my youtube channel, JewelryBizGuru) and hear for yourself what makes Scott Kay so mad. And what he thinks the solution is to an affordable wedding ring option. "If gold was a $100 an ounce we wouldn't be bothering with this," he said. But with precious metals being so volatile there is a great need in the industry for contemporary metals.

Photo by jewelry journalist Cheryl Kremkow -- her blog post gives you her view on this issue.

jewelry_cycle exhibition: Artists Discover Hidden Sparkle in the Discarded

Holy Mother Board, Batman... it's jewelry!

Jewelry_cycle is an educational showcase of wearable treasures made from re-cycled circuit boards on exhibit at the San Francisco Museum of Craft + Design until January 4, 2009.

Circuit boards contain precious metals, such as copper, silver and gold, which add a precious element to what would otherwise be considered e-waste. The curators, Christine Dhein and Christophe Koch, along with invited artists Shana Astrachan, David Casella, Reed Easley, Aimee Golant, Kelly Nederman and emiko oye discover the hidden potential and transform these materials to create brilliant, sparkling jewels.

Christine hopes that this recycled jewelry collection will “inspire visitors to appreciate the potential value of discarded objects in a new way.”

The details of the exhibition design received as much attention from the curators as the jewelry. Koch believes that “contemporary jewelry should be presented in a modern way that leaves a lasting impression.” Dhein focuses on the way jewelry is brought to life when it is worn. Using these ideas and inspiration from “La Belle et la Bete” a movie by French director, Jean Cocteau, the curators collected used and borrowed mannequin parts to create a surrealist environment that showcases the jewelry in a way that visitors will remember.

The co-curators each bring a unique perspective on Green Design --- Dhein is a jewelry designer who has been using recycled materials for over 10 years, as well as an educator at the forefront of the Green Jewelry Movement. Koch, an eco designer trained in France and the USA, pushes the envelope of green industrial design and packaging. For over a year, the pair has worked together on green jewelry.

When they happened upon a lot of small, discarded circuit boards, they agreed that these materials would be the perfect starting point to create jewelry that raises awareness about the problems in the mining industry, as well as with e-waste and over-consumption.

With the idea of the exhibition in mind, the curators invited members of Metal Arts Critique Collective, a group of metal artists that Dhein co-founded eleven years ago, to create wearable pieces from small, discarded circuit boards. Participating artists were also asked to write about and photograph their process. Koch complied the results into a book, which is part of the exhibition, and demonstrates that all of the artists found inspiration in the materials and felt good about creating something beautiful from trash.
 
~ Kelp Necklace, 2008, by Shana Astrachan, re-purposed circuit boards, sterling silver, Photo Credit: Christine Dhein
~ Geek Bling, 2008, by Kelly Nedderman, re-purposed circuit boards, brass, Photo Credit: Christine Dhein
~ 21st Century Breastplate, 2008, by Christine Dhein, re-purposed circuit boards, brass, rubber, Photo Credit: Christine Dhein
~ Link Necklace, 2008, by Aimee Golant, re-purposed circuit boards, sterling silver, Photo Credit: Christine Dhein

Jewelry Pliers Improved by Alan Revere of Revere Academy

After two years in development, a newly refined and improved set of pliers, designed by Alan Revere, is available for goldsmiths and jewelry makers everywhere.

The result of research, refinement and redesign, the new pliers incorporate a unique textured grip, which was designed by Alan.

“We started with the finest German-made pliers available and added a totally new grip that increases function and efficiency. These pliers help get the job done, rather than getting in the way,” says Revere of his latest design.

A prominent jewelry author and educator, Alan Revere is a German trained master goldsmith, award winning jewelry designer, and founder of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco, California.

Dissatisfied with pliers currently available through suppliers, a few years ago Revere wrote an article in MJSA Journal. In it he suggested that bench jewelers rip the springs and brightly colored plastics handles off of their pliers for improved control and performance. These controversial instructions later become tip number 63 in Revere’s book, 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers, published by MJSA/AJM Press in 2004. Revere argued that both the handles and springs diminish tactile sensation, reduce kinesthetic feedback and ultimately lower the function of pliers.

Shortly afterwards, Revere was invited to a small German factory, where they have been making pliers by hand for generations. In this workshop, which takes great pride in hand craftsmanship and quality, Revere was asked to design a set of pliers to meet his ultimate expectations.

Revere’s ultimate pliers are intended for serious jewelers and bench workers. Revere Pliers come in flat, chain, round and half round/flat versions.

Revere pliers are available across the United States and around the world, distributed exclusively through Euro Tool, Inc. Available individually or as a set with a wooden stand, Revere pliers come with instructions on use and maintenance, as well as the history of Revere pliers.